Ah Xiao Teochew Braised Duck: Slice it Nice!

When you all order chicken or duck dishes, do you ever pay attention to who chops up your meat? I seldom, but I find that when it comes to a potentially tough meat like duck, the person who slices it really does make a difference.

This teochew braised duck was highly recommended by smart who claimed that it was one of the best in Singapore. It is the Teochew style braised duck meaning that the sauce is the thin, watery type and more savoury than sweet compared to the Hokkien version.



So I had really high hopes when the dish of duck came but surprisingly my first impression was that the meat was a little tough and a tad dry. Tastewise, the Teochew style braising sauce is not as sweet as the Hokkien version and was quite Pang (savoury). However, I was sitting there giving my muscles of mastication a good workout and wondering why smart would even recommend such a place.

When the Lao Ban Niang spotted me taking pictures of the plate of duck, she popped over with the usual "Are you a reporter?" question. When I complained that the duck was a bit tough, she immediately explained that her worker was not as adapt at slicing the meat as she was and offered to demonstrate how it should be done.



So when I was presented with the 2nd plate of braised duck, I must say it looked quite different from the first plate. This time it was sliced thinner and each slice was wider as she angled the cleaver more diagonally. And it yes the meat was more tender and juicy. So, if you are patronizing this stall, make sure you ask the Lau Ban Niang to slice it for you! 4/5

Conclusion

Who slices the meat does make a difference which is why other Lau Ban Niangs like the one from Yeo Keng Nam and Kay Lee insist on doing it themselves!

Ah Xiao Teochew Braised Duck
Geylang East Food Centre
#01-30
11.30am to 7.30pm
Monday Closed

Lim Seng Lee Duck Rice: Cheap no Good, Good no Cheap

With Damien


I guess it is part of the Singaporean character to look for things that are cheap and good. This is especially true when it comes to food. However, many foodies are also ready to fork out their cash when they come across really good food. The fact is that the "Good" is not cheap and it is compounded by the fact that the "Cheap" is not as good as the "Good" that is not cheap.

There are only a handful of hawkers in Singapore who can actually command such unquestioning allegiance from their customers. Their food is so good that their customers don't mind paying the premium as well as suffer potential verbal abuse in order to have their taste buds tickled. According to Damien, this is one of them.

I was of course skeptical. How good can braised duck really get? I have yet to find a braised duck that I could have a craving for.

Well, all that is about to change. The duck here is actually very enjoyable. The meat was moist and tender and the unique, sweet vinegar chilli was the perfect accompaniment for the duck. It was actually quite shiok! 4.5/5 Just one problem, the plate small plate of thinly sliced duck costs $5 and if you go during peak periods, the wait can be pretty long.

Conclusion

Really nice braised duck with a shiok chilli sauce dip. Good enough to get me thinking about traveling all the way out West to eat it, but not quite that good enough for me pay a premium and still suffer a long queue for.

Lim Seng Lee Duck Rice
38 South Buona Vista Road
10.30am to 8.30pm
64759908

Cheok Kee Duck Rice: How good can Braised Duck get?

Did you know that a duck is called a duck because of the way it ducks underwater to feed? I just thought that that was an interesting piece of trivia.

Talking about ducks, it seems to be the poor (or should I say fortunate) cousin of the chicken. I mean, you eat chicken at least a few times per week and its cooked in so many different ways. When it comes to duck, you basically have the roast version or the braised version and a sprinkling of dishes here and there. I remember as a kid, mom only ever cooked braised duck and it is eaten only during festive occasions.

Since braised duck is a supposed to be a Teochew dish, I should really love it since I am 100% unadulterated Teochew. Then again, I have already confessed to my lack of Teochewness as is apparent in my lack of appreciation of the Peh Toh Her. So braised duck does not evoke as much saliva as say Char Siew for me. In fact, I think that braised duck can only attain a certain level of shiokness which will never surpass the shiokability of something like say, a bowl of laksa. I don't remember eating one that I can really go "Shiokadoooledoooo!".

So when it comes to this 40 year old Duck Rice in Macpherson, I was not too disappointed since I was not expecting too much. The thing about this stretch of stalls along Macpherson Road is that it really is a model of Darwin's theory of survival of the fittest. There are only a few shops there that have been around for more then a couple of years. The rest of the stalls just keep changing hands because the location is just not conducive. So if this stall has been around for so long, it means that the food must be good enough such that it has got a critical mass of regular customers to keep it going.

As I said, I did not expect too much. So it wasn't too bad. The duck was a little dry and the braising sauce was nothing to brag about. But hey, I am sure that there are fans out there who would disagree with me. The other thing I found out is that this is a Cantonese version of braised duck. Interesting since you would not expect people in the past to do cross cultural dishes as much as they do today. I was told that Cantonese Braised Duck has a thick gooey sauce and uses more herbs then Teochew Braised Duck. Perhaps our Braised Duck experts can confirm this to be true? 3.5/5

Conclusion

Has anyone ever eaten a braised duck that can be rated near a five or can braised duck only ever get so good?

Cheok Kee Duck Rice
520 Macpherson Road
9.30am to 7pm
Closed on Tuesdays
67439755

Xing Ji Braised Duck: Good Enough to switch loyalties!

On assignment with Professional Photographer, Alec Ee
Set for 2, $8 Photo by Alec Ee

On this occasion, I was invited to join professional photographer, Alec Ee to a photoshoot of his favourite Braised Duck stall which according to him is better (in a different sort of way) from the famous one at Tekka. This little known braised duck stall facing the Sungei Road thieves market was only started 6 months ago but has already attracted a regular following of braised meat lovers like Uncle Alec, who, until he found this stall, was a regular at Tekka.



Being in the presence of a professional photographer was a little intimidating for me at first. When you look at the kind of photos that he takes, you will know what I mean. Because he was so particular about the lighting and set up, it meant that for once, I was the one who had to be patient and wait while others took the pictures. After that I had to take my shots before we got to eat! Phwa I was really hungry by the time I got the first piece of duck into my mouth.


Duck Noodle $2.50 Pic by Alec Ee

The first thing that caught my attention was the way the stall owner sliced the duck breast. It is in the same style as the braised goose served at Guan Hin. Surely a good sign! When it comes to duck I actually prefer the breast meat to thigh meat. Because duck breast is actually red meat not white, I find that it combines tenderness of breast meat with the taste of thigh meat.

Do you know the difference between red and white meat? Red meat consist of slow twitch muscle fibres while white meat consist of fast twitch muscles. Slow twitch muscles are used for slower, sustained activity such as walking while fast twitch muscles are good for quick but short lived bursts of activity. So, chicken breast is typically white meat because a chicken doesn't really fly, it uses its breast muscles to quickly flap its wings when it is excited. The legs contain more slow twitch muscles since it is always walking around. That explains the difference in tastes of the two parts of the chicken. But since ducks actually fly (most migrate seasonally), the breast meat contains more slow twitch muscles so that they can have sustained muscle activity while they fly for long distances. Which is why duck breast tastes more like red meat. Yes or no?

The Braised Duck here is quite good. The breast is nice and tender and because it is sliced thin and wide, the texture is very different from your usual braised duck. I like the Lor as it is the thin watery type and is on the sweeter end of the spectrum but it still has enough umami. 4.25/5



Aside from the duck, the other thing that you really must order is the pork cheek. Oooh, sinfully soft and chewy at the same time! Not good......Very Good! 4.5/5

Conclusion

My next assignment is to try the famous Braised Duck over at Tekka. The braised duck here is very good, but until I get to compare it with the other famous one, you will just have to take Uncle Alec's word that it is good enough for him to switch loyalties! It's a new stall, but the stall owner really has passion for his craft, so I think it is only a matter of time before other braised meat lovers will discover his stall.


Xing Ji Braised Duck
Kelantan Food Centre
(Facing Sungei Road Thieves Market)
11 Kelantan Road 01-04
10am to 7pm daily